Spotting a Tourist Trap vs a Real Taverna
Warning signs: a staff member actively waving you in from the street, a laminated menu with photos of every dish, and a menu offered in six languages before you've even sat down. Real neighborhood tavernas, especially in Koukaki or side streets off Monastiraki, tend to have shorter, seasonal menus and no one standing outside trying to seat you.
What to Actually Order
Beyond souvlaki and gyro (both genuinely good street food, not just tourist filler), look for moussaka, fresh grilled fish sold by weight, saganaki (fried cheese), and horiatiki — the real Greek salad, which never comes with lettuce.
Varvakios Market and Athens' Coffee Culture
The Central Municipal Market (Varvakios) near Monastiraki is worth a walk-through even if you're not cooking — fishmongers, butchers and spice stalls give a real sense of the city beyond the ruins. Greek coffee culture runs deep too: sitting for an hour over a single frappé or freddo espresso is completely normal, not rushed.
The single best rule: if a restaurant is working hard to pull you in from the street with a tout or a photo menu, walk one block further — Athens' best food is rarely the loudest about it.